| February 2009 |
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1 February 2009 We met Fr. John before Sunday mass to say thank you and goodbye to him. It was very kind of him to allow us to stay at the We drove from Arba Minch to Konso and into the
The
I was looking forward to today. We are going to the Hamer Tribal Market in the
We drove into the village and had a crowd of people run after the two trucks as we approached the market. The Hamer people were nice. I liked them. They wanted to shake our hands and were friendly. There were other people there too – touts and hasslers. A large group of kids were gathered around me, trying to touch my hair, pull my shoes off, anything. I was not happy. One old Hamer lady was very kind and told the kids that I was scared, and to leave me alone. She was sat next to Mum on a step and held my hand for a while. There were kids trying to climb up on top of the trucks and one was trying to peel the stickers off Tuah. It was all too much for me, and Mum eventually took me into the back of Gerrit and Sandra’s truck. We left the market soon after and returned to the campsite. It was peaceful there and I enjoyed the rest of the day playing with some of the Hamer boys at the camp and relaxing later in the evening after a good shower.
3 February 2009 Drive from Turmi to We have a long drive ahead of us today. Our original plan was to drive today to Jinka, where the Mursi Tribe can be seen, but after the chaos at the Hamer market yesterday, the thought of having to drive an extra 400km on more bad roads and the fact that some travelers who had come from Jinka told us they had to take a two hour tour from Jinka, into the Mursi Village, and when they got there, the Mursi were very aggressive and demanded a lot of money for photographs, changed our minds for us. We headed back towards Konso, and to Yabello, where Fr John said we could stay in the grounds of the Catholic Mission, with his friend, Fr Martin.
We faced the bad roads again, and passed the
Moyale Border Crossing from After the excitement of last night, we woke up wondering what would be in store for us today. The church gatekeeper was waiting for us with his interpreter, asking us to pay him an amount which was probably half his monthly salary. Of course, we were up in arms and the old man settled for whatever we had intended to give him. We left Yabello feeling that we really had enough of
The road to Moyale was an asphalt road, but was very narrow and not in the best condition in many places. We stopped along the way to examine one of the thousands of gigantic ant hills. They were much taller than me and solid. Hard to imagine they were built by teeny tiny ants! It had all been quite straight forward, us knowing that we had 2 days of 12 hour driving to get to Isiolo, some 500 odd kilometers away from where we were. There had been a problem with bandits on this route in the past, but no overlanders has been targeted in the last few years, but here at Moyale, the police were telling us otherwise. They said we needed to travel in a convoy with armed escorts, leaving Moyale at 10.30am, and that it was a dangerous road. Knowing that even a couple of weeks ago, overlanders were travelling up and down this route with no convoy or hassle, we opted to carry on ourselves, early in the morning. It was not the best of discussions to have, but we did have to talk about what to do, should we be ambushed along the way. 5 January 2009 Moyale to I woke up before 6am, to find Dad and Mum already downstairs, packing up and getting ready to hit the road. On the way out of the police compound, the policeman on duty asked for ‘something to buy coffee with’. Mum told him that we had already given something to the policeman on duty last night. They seem to like coffee in The four grown ups were rather somber and stressed today. Me, I take everything as it comes, and was quite happy to play with my toys in my car seat. I could not even watch a DVD, as the road was too bumpy. About 100km from Moyale, we arrived at a police checkpoint and were told that the next 5km was the worst stretch for bandits. We drove the trucks as fast as the badly corrugated, stony road could allow them to go without any damage and 15km later arrived at the town of
After a cold drink from our fridge, we hit the road again, arriving in Marsabit just before dark. We had spent 11 and a half hours on the road today, and were pleased to find the way to Henry the Swiss, who is a Swiss guy called Henry, living in Marsabit, with camping facilities in his backyard. A nice clean hot shower – a luxury these days! 6 January 2009 Marsabit to Archer’s Point, Mum made some Eggy Bread for breakfast and we were off again at the crack of dawn. The roads today are just as bad as yesterdays, and we expected to spend most daylight hours driving. We saw many children going to school along the way, and many more who did not, but were tending cattle and sheep. Some were decked out in their tribal outfits and were very colourful. We also saw many baboons, mouse deer and squirrels along the way.
The roads were badly damaged and Dad and Mum took turns to drive, not even stopping for lunch as we usually do. Today, like yesterday, we ate on the move.We arrived at Archer’s Point, at the Samburu Nature Reserve and found the Catholic Mission, where Fr Joshua allowed us to camp in the compound for the night. I enjoyed running around in the compound Tomorrow, we will be driving to the big town,
Archer’s Point to We said farewell to Fr Joshua and headed back on the bad roads to Isiolo. The 40km took us 2 hours, but from Isiolo onwards, we had an asphalt road…phew! We stopped for fruit and vegetables at the market in Nanyuki, the town through which the Equator runs through and then stopped at the Equator to take some photos and see how the water swirls in opposite directions on either side of the Equator. Amazing!
We made our way towards Lavington in No driving tomorrow, but there is an awful lot of work to be done, cleaning up the truck and clearing out all the sand that has found it’s way in over the last few weeks! 8 January 2009 I woke up early, wondering if we had to drive again today, as the sun rose, but Mum said no. Thank goodness! We had some breakfast and then Dad and Mum got to work removing everything from Tuah, cleaning out all the sand and dust. Gerrit and Sandra were also hard at work on their truck. We have traveled together all the way from Aswan, through Sudan and Ethiopia, and in a few days, we will be parting company at Mombasa, where they will be spending 2 months on the beach, before heading down to Cape Town. I am going to miss them, as I miss Rene and Andrea, who went down a different route from us at
In the afternoon, a Malaysian living in
Everyone at Jungle Junction was in for a treat! Uncle Dunstan, Auntie Marina and Slava joined us and brought some wonderful mutton curry. It was such an exciting day, that I eventually fell asleep on the sofa.
In the afternoon, Uncle Dunstan and Slava come over and drive back with us to their home, where we will be staying for the next couple of days. They have 4 dogs, one of them is a Chinese Shar-Pei. I never knew that there was such a thing as a Chinese dog. We made ourselves at home and were treated to nasi lemak for dinner. Uncle Dunstan, Aunty Marina and Slava are really cool people. Their friend, Jimmy is staying with them at the moment, and he’s fun, too.
We have breakfast and head out to the Malaysian High Commission, with Uncle Dunstan. We are met by Mr. Johnny Hew and Mr. Ibrahim, who chat to us about our travels.
From the High Commission, we fetch Sandra from Jungle Junction and go to the AA Office to get the Comesa Yellow Card, which insures Tuah on the road in several of the Eastern African Countries we are travelling through. There is no McDonald’s or KFC in
We drop Sandra back at Jungle Junction and see a huge truck had arrived while we have been away. It belongs to a Belgian family, with 3 little boys, Anatole (6), Leonor (4) and Gubia (2). They are travelling around the world over 3 years with their parents, Nicolas and Catherine. Their truck is equipped with cinema equipment, and they have viewings for children in small villages, orphanages and schools along the way. Their website is www.angaleo.org I had a brilliant time playing with my new friends and eventually, we made our way back to Uncle Dunstan and Aunty Marina’s home for the night. Tonight, a friend of theirs joined us for dinner – another wonderful meal!
I had a brilliant time feeding the giraffes, watching the crocodiles and ostrich. After lunch of chicken and chips, we headed back to Jungle Junction. Later in the evening, we headed back to Uncle Dunstan's home, where Uncle Jimmy was preparing a yummy BBQ dinner for us and some of their friends. There was meat, sausages, ribs and ostrich meat....yum! I also had some little friends to play with, but after dinner, with my tummy full, I fell asleep on the balcony.
I fell asleep on Uncle Dunstan’s balcony, but woke up in the roof tent in Jungle Junction. I had toast for breakfast – not made in the frying pan, but in a proper toaster in the kitchen at Jungle Junction…this place is a home away from home!
Mum headed out with Sandra for groceries and a haircut while I stayed back at the campsite with Dad.
Tonight, Sandra and Gerrit treated us to a lovely dinner and later on, Uncle Dunstan, Aunty Marina and Slava came around later to say goodbye to us. We will be leaving Mum woke me up before 7am and we took off from Jungle Junction, heading for The road was initially quite bad – potholes, sharp stones and mad drivers. Eventually, we came to a newly resurfaced asphalt road, compliments of the European Union. We bought some mangoes and tomatoes along the way and stopped for lunch at a nice shady place.
Along the way we saw some baobab trees, baboons and zebra. We had seen some wild ostrich and lots of dik-dik, or mouse deer, as they are called in
After an early dinner, Mum and Thika, the campsite’s Maasai guard took me to a corner of the camp where we could see a waterhole, where animals come to drink from. This evening, we saw a heard of impala. No rushing tomorrow, as we only have a couple of hours drive to 14 February 2009 We take our time leaving Voi and drive towards the coast. We stopped along the way to pick up some coal to cook with on the beach. When we got into
We found the Twiga Lodge and Campsite and got ourselves a nice spot to park the trucks on the beach. We settled in and had a dip in the sea. The water was nice and warm. There were monkeys at the campsite called Blue Balls. I wonder why? We had dinner and went to sleep to the sound of the waves in the sea. By the time I woke up, Mum had breakfast ready and she put me straight into my swimming trunks. I played in the sand and swam in the sea. We had fresh fish brought to us, pineapples, mangoes, cashew nuts, coconuts, trinkets…just about anything, really!
It was quite a relaxing day, but one of the hottest days we have had so far. For dinner, Gerrit barbequed the fish we bought this morning and we had that with some salad and corn and potatoes. We saw some crabs coming onto the beach as we were having dinner, and some little animal, like a baby hedgehog, which was hiding in a tree nearby. I was worn out and went to sleep earlier than usual. What a nice day!
16 February 2009 Another lazy day on the beach. I could get used to this beach bum lifestyle! I spent today shifting sand on the beach. It was hard work. I have some new friends, too. There’s Ben and Phillip, who arrived today. Ben, from the
I collected some seashells and saw lots of starfish, sea urchins and sea cucumbers. There were some little fish near the shore, too. This beach is not developed – no hotels and no shops, just a couple of lodges and a place to camp on the beach, with locals bringing fresh fish, fruits and vegetables. A small piece of paradise!
Today will be our last day at the beach with Gerrit and Sandra. I can’t imagine that we’ll be driving without them, after travelling together since 12 January. 18 February 2009 We woke up early this morning. It was a bit gloomy – both the sky and the mood at camp. Today we are saying goodbye to Gerrit and Sandra, and also to our other new friends on the beach.
We headed back to the Likoni Ferry and drove onto Voi, where we had some nice chapatti for lunch. Along the way through
I had fun this morning, with the dogs and Sharon, a backpacker from St Albans, who helped me plant a seed which will one day grow into a big tree. In the afternoon, Tania, the daughter of Uncle Chris, who owns Jungle Junction came over and we played together for a few hours. What fun!
Later in the evening, we headed out to the nearby supermarket to stock up on some groceries and then met Uncle Dunstan, Aunty Marina and Slava for a wonderful Ethiopian meal at a restaurant nearby. I even had ice cream for desert. Sadly, I did not say goodbye to them, as I fell asleep before we left the restaurant. As soon as I woke up, I was off looking for Sharon, who was also camping at Jungle Junction. She’s great fun and always has s moment for me. After breakfast, I had a few moments to play with Ulysse, the French overlanding dog, before we set off for the Rift Valley.
At teatime, we arrived at the tea plantations in Kerichio. The area was lovely and clean and the neat tea bushes were a wonderful sight. It reminded me of The Cameron Highlands in We left Kisumu after being mobbed by about 20 people, all trying to sell us tea leaves. When we said we didn’t want any, they asked us for money to buy tea…I don’t get it – they are selling tea, so why do they want us to give them money to buy tea for themselves? The mid boggles!
Anyway, we made our way on a very bumpy road to Kisumu. There were people everywhere, some walking, some on bicycles, some working in the fields, some filling up potholes in the road with sand and asking for money from the passing motorists. We had some breakfast before setting off from the border town of
At Jinja, we crossed the River Nile again. We have been driving along the Nile in Dad and Mum had to decide this morning what we are to do next. They eventually decided to drive around
After that, we had a nice Indian curry and chapatti lunch before heading out of
The roads were bad most of the way, though, and we could not make good time. We do not usually drive after dark, but as we have been on the road back to Nairobi before and knew what it was like, decided to proceed, arrivng back at Jungle Junction just before midnight. We spent about 12 hours on the road today. Tomorrow, instead of driving towards Tanzania, as planned, Dad decided that we will relax at Jungle Junction and stock up on groceries and catch up on some washing. Waking up, I ran off to say good morning to the Jungle Junction dogs, Boomba and Pippa, and Ulyeese, the overlanding dog. My friend, Sharon had moved on, though. I was hoping to see her again, but such is life. I hope she’s well.After breakfast, we drove down the road to the Nakumatt Supermarket, to stock up on groceries. Mum made us some lunch, back at Jungle Junction, and I spent the afternoon lazing around in the living room and running around in the garden. 26 February 2009 Border crossing at After breakfast, it’s time to say goodbye to Uncle Chris and all our friends at Jungle Junction. We head towards the Tanzanian border, using a short-cut through some lovely countryside in Ngong.
We saw some zebra and impala along the way, and plenty of cattle. There were many people from the Maasai Tribe in the area. Mum had prepared some nasi lemak for lunch, which we had just before crossing the Kenyan-Tanzanian border at Namanga. We cleared both borders fairly quickly, and headed south towards the town of We are camping tonight at the Honey Badgers Lodge, in Moshi, by the 27 February 2009 The wind had eventually died down and it actually remained dry. We were woken up early though, from the chickens on the other side of the fence. After a big egg and sausage breakfast, we headed off to the
We saw the great mountain on the way in to Moshi, yesterday, but today, we were going to see the start of the
We drove on towards Mombo, where we turned off towards Soni. This was a very scenic route, up the highlands. Mum had heard of a place here, called Marweni Farm, where some overlanders had been before us. We got there though and were told that they do not allow camping anymore. We decided then, to head for Lushoto, some 20km away, where another overlander had recommended another campsite. Irante View Point was 6km off the road, at the end of a dirt track to a cliff. We were able to park at the edge of the cliff and enjoy the spectacular view and a lovely sunset. 28 February 2009 We had some freshly made chapatti for breakfast, which Mum had ordered from Tatu, the lady at the campsite. It was rather cloudy this morning, so we could not enjoy the wonderful view over the cliff. I played with the daughter of a neighbour, while Dad and Mum packed up, and soon we were heading back out the dirt track towards Lushoto and then down the highlands, back to Mombo.
It’s nice to have pretty good asphalt to drive on – it seems that we have not had smooth roads and proper sign posting in ages! It was a nice drive past small villages, up and down some hills and through some very pretty countryside. Eventually, we arrived at
Right enough, we saw a herd of giraffes, then some impala, more giraffes and zebra grazing together, a few elephants, including some baby ones and a heard of buffalo sitting in a pond of mud. We made our way to the Tan-Swiss Lodge in Makumi and settled in. I played in the play park at the Lodge with the owner’s kids for a while, before settling down for dinner and a much needed shower. |


























































