28th March 2009: Underberg to Port St. Johns

The party of 4X4s left at 0630hrs and as I was already up I managed to speak to of the drivers who confirmed that they were going up Sani Pass. I wouldn’t have minded going but after the experience we had when reentering South Africa from Swaziland with the customs, we wouldn’t like to risk it. There is also the suspicion I had with the brakes which needed attention.

We continued on the R103 while stopping at a farm shop nearby Underberg, where we had the attention of not only the shop owner but also two police cars. We were told then that the temperature in the winter could go down to -17C and that people come form other parts of South Africa to see snow in Underberg. The policewoman even got Adrian a piece of fudge which Alison later ate in the car with me given a bite of it. I had the chocolate coated peanut given to Adrian by the shop owner though!

The R103 continued to give a wonderful view while driving We tried looking for the Mandela’s Monument marking the place of his arrest but couldn’t see it anywhere along the route. It couldn’t have been anything significant otherwise we would have spotted it. We joined the R617 thereafter and the view continued to be outstanding until Kokstad when we had to go to R61 when our eyes were opened to the other side of South Africa, POVERTY. As we passed the towns of Flagstaff, Palmerton and Lusikisiki the quality of the towns suddenly changed. They are drab with people just hanging around and it was in Lusikisiki that I was approached to “give me my bread” by a young scruffy African. He must have been quite well known in town because as Alison was approaching Tuah from getting us some lunch a passerby asked if we had anew friend!

Even the weather started to change, became cloudy and started to drizzle. It was quite harrowing to drive in the mountains in such condition. We got into Port St. Johns in good time and went through the town which did not have much to offer. We then decided to go back out to Cremone Estates which we saw sign posted just outside the town. Adrian had a field day as Izette the receptionist took a liking to him giving him chocolates (which I ate) and stuff.

But the day didn’t end too well as I was slow in deciding to put up the awning and by the time I did it had begun to rain. I got a little bit wet but it saved us hunting for a place to shelter or having to end up sitting in Tuah. All the same I enjoyed the daging masak kitchap that Alison had prepared.